1911 Field Strip Stand

By

Cree Vicar Dave ~ SASS Life Regulator #49907

Look, up in the sky; it’s a bird, it’s a plane, no, it’s a “1911 Recoil Spring Plug”. 

WarningAlways use safety glasses and all other safety equipment when working on and using firearms.  Never place your eye or any other valued part of your body in line of a potential flying object (or anyone else’s body parts as well.)  Always keep a firearm pointed in a safe direction.  If you have a 1911 pistol (‘barrel bushing type’) you may have already experienced the phenomenon of launching the recoil spring plug while field stripping or reassembling the firearm.  It is a good idea to have at least one spare plug on hand in case a “flyer” lands off the fairway or in a sand or water hazard. 

 

When field stripping a 1911 it takes steady hands to balance the gun, turn the bushing wrench and safely remove the spring loaded plug without causing an unwanted event.  Ya almost need three hands ta do the job properly.  So I decided ta build a “1911 Field Strip Stand” ta use as my third hand. 

It says in I Thessalonians 4:11a (NIV), “Make it your ambition to lead a quiet life, to mind your own business and to work with your hands,…” 

 

Most any type of sturdy wood could be used.  When the light bulb (over my head) came fully on, I took a stroll through the shop and found some small pieces of lumber left over from former projects to fill the bill. 

Base; made out of pine and is around 3/4" thick X 7 1/4" wide X 14 1/4" long.  There are felt pads on the 4 bottom corners. 

Stand; made out of red oak, is 3/4" thick and width ripped to around 1/16" (or a little more) wider than the widest point of the pistol.  The back upright is 6 1/4" high and the front is 3 1/4" high.  The bottom is cut to around 3/16" longer then the height of the pistol and fits between the back and front verticals. 

Side Strips; around 1/2" thick X 2" wide and are cut on an angle to fit. 

The stand is held together with “DAP Acrylic Silicone” clear caulk and deck screws.  Holes were drilled and counter sunk to accommodate the screws so as not to split the wood. 

A coat of MIN WAX neutral stain and a couple coats of MIN WAX Antique Oil Finish were applied to the stand. 

There are tape measure on stand photos to show actual size. 

 

   
Drilling & counter sinking holes for the uprights. The stand is held together with caulk and wood deck screws.   Measurements for the stand. The bottom piece fits between the two uprights and should be cut a little longer than the height of the pistol plus deer skin padding on each side, if so desired.   The width of the stand should be a little wider than the pistol, but if leather padding is wanted - plus room for deer skin on each side if so desired. Or the deer skin can be applied to the full length of the side pieces.
 
 
Base measurements, the corners are rounded off to around a 1/2 inch radius. If you bring out the grain, sand, stain, apply one coat of finish, sand and apply coat 2 of finish it'll look great & last quite a spell.   Unfinished stand. It could be used this way, but it will hold up & look a whole lot nicer with an oil finish and in a deer skin suit.   Applying the deer skin to the inside of the stand using DAP ACRYLIC SILICONE CAULK. The leather helps to keep from marring the gun & cushions the piece in the stand.
 
 
Finished Stand. There is one coat of MIN WAX neutral stain and two coats of MIN WAX Antique Oil Finish.   View of finished stand holding a 1911 pistol. It is good to be able to remove the plug without trying to steady the pistol at the same time.   Bottom view of stand. There are felt pads on each corner to help keep from scratching the surface it is resting on.

 

You may notice that there is a deer skin lining on the stand.  That is thanks to:

Pecos Clyde

SASS # 48481

SASS Wild Bunch Committee member

He had been mentoring me on "Wild Bunch" etiquette for a couple weeks prior to constructing the stand, so when I finished it I sent him an e-mail photo to see what he thought of it. He shot back that it would be a little nicer if it had a leather lining. Good idea! So I took the side strips off, cut soft deer skin to size and applied the pieces to the inside of stand using "DAP Acrylic Silicone" clear caulk, pressing out the wrinkles. (This caulk works very well as an adhesive and cleans up with water). If planned for ahead of time the width of the stand could have been cut wider to allow for the leather, and then after the stand was built the deer skin installed.

Remember to always wear eye and ear safety devises. Follow all safety rules and utilize all safety equipment when working on and using the projects. This is not a how to article. This is the way I made the stand. It may not work out for you. This article is meant only to stimulate the gray matter between the ears.

 

Hope to see ya on the trail.

 

God bless,

creevicardave@hotmail.com

 

Photos by:

Split Aces - SASS Life #78753

Cree Vicar Dave